I have been surfing for 20 years, that number actually sounds huge and impossible to me, since I think I am still 18. I am not. However, I am permanently stoked on my surf journey and can’t wait for more adventures and waves. I act like a child the night before christmas every time a swell is on the horizon. I am what you would call a “soul surfer”. Yep, it sounds cliche, and it is, I don’t care.
It’s not just surfing for me, it is the ultimate quest, the big unknown, the constant growth, the skill, the connectedness, the… everything. I could write for hours straight about how surfing makes me feel and if you know me personally, I have probably talked your ear off about it. I am not just obsessed with surfing, I am devoutly addicted to the sea. I just might be a mermaid with legs. Maybe, like the little mermaid, I traded some part of my soul for feet long ago and the only time I get it back is when I am in the big blue. She is my mother, my father, my god and my love. Yes, I feel like that about it. It’s incurable and I am ok with that.
For more info and a really good read about why being by the ocean heals the soul and the body check out this study/blog. Click here Beach Benefits
My good friend and photographer Ray Gutierrez and I have decided to shoot an editorial style “surf story” series. These are some of the shots we’ve created so far. I will call this Part one. Malibu, California.
Every time I step into the ocean, I am going home.